the Why in the Road

A Year of Awe-laska

There are many reasons to experience Alaska, whether to find yourself in the adventure and sport or to lose yourself in its immense natural beauty. It is difficult to adequately describe the awe and mystery of Alaska. One can simply experience this land for yourself and then describe what it means to you.

The wonder of Alaska first drew us north when we took a cruise along the Inside Passage to celebrate our 50th birthdays. Then two of our kids moved to the Last Frontier and we have been there many times since. In 2014 we flew to Anchorage, rented a class C RV and explored Alaska from Homer to Denali to Skagway. In 2017 we did a 7800-mile, 3-week road trip from Minnesota to Alaska and back with our Aliner pop-up camper. In 2021 we flew to Fairbanks for our daughter’s wedding, outside, in the snow, a beautiful wedding. And there have been other trips where we brought family and friends along so they could experience Alaska as well.

February 2023
And now we also have a new grandson there and in 2023 we made three trips north, totaling nearly five months in Alaska. In February we put our fifth wheel in storage in Florida, dropped our truck off at a shop to get some work done while we were gone and flew out of Tampa, which provided a significant contrast to the weather that awaited us. We made it to Anchorage fine but the connecting flight to Valdez was delayed two days and Auggie’s arrival came before ours. It was such a joy to meet him and get to know each other in the three weeks we were there.

This was our first time in Alaska in winter. Valdez doesn’t get as cold as the interior, but they sure get the snow which was around 5 feet deep and it was fascinating to see how the city deals with it all. We also got to see northern lights and the show was stunning as the sky danced over the mountains. In our time in Anchorage on the way out we also got to take part in the Fur Rondy celebrations.

Summer 2023
In May we drove to Alaska with our home in tow. We considered moving into a smaller RV for the trip but weren’t able to make that happen, so we took our Reflection 295RL fifth-wheel. Driving up enriches the Alaska experience. It was a different experience for us this time as full-time RVers. Though we again used Minnesota as our launching point we didn’t really have a base we needed to return to. And anywhere we went we were home, even in the middle of the Yukon.

Being retired we didn’t have to rush our trip, unlike the brutal schedule we had in 2017. At least that was the hope. We wanted to take our time going through Canada to savor its beauty. Unfortunately we had to rush both ways because of wildfires. In May our planned route went out the window after just one day. We rerouted a couple times, crossing into Canada at Sweet Grass, Montana and then heading up to Edmonton before turning west toward Dawson Creek and the start of the Alaska Highway.

On the drive west from Edmonton we went through towns that were evacuated and a couple areas where fire had burned forest and structures along the highway. West of Dawson Creek a growing fire was threatening the Alaska Highway and affecting traffic at times. The day we drove through the wind was blowing away from the road and we were able to get through. We could see helicopters flying around the glowing smoke clouds as the battle continued.

Our favorite stay on the way up was Liard Hot Springs just beyond the worst area of fires and we stayed two nights. We took the boardwalk out to the springs a few times and it was so nice to slow down and relax for a bit. The campground at Liard Hot Springs is surrounded by a tall wire fence to keep the wildlife out and you have to leave this enclosure to get to the springs. On one of our strolls down the boardwalk a moose crossed a couple hundred feet in front of us.

Another place we really enjoyed was Congdon Creek on Kluane Lake in the Yukon. In 2017 we stayed at Cottonwood Campground on Kluane which was very nice but it has since closed. The water level on Kluane Lake has gone down a little since last we were there because the retreat of a glacier allowed the diversion of a major river that used to flow into the lake. Kluane is still a beautiful and fascinating place.

The stretch of Alaska Highway from Kluane to Tok, AK is notoriously bad. On the Canadian side there are frost heaves and much of the road is dirt. In May the US side was actually worse. While there is more pavement there were big potholes within the dips and swells from the frost heaves. The key is to just go slow. If you can average 30 mph you’re doing good.

The final stretch going south from Glennallen took us through a couple more construction zones which can be worse than the Alaska Highway. There are no detours, you go through the work zone. Thirty miles from Valdez is Thompson Pass which receives over 50 feet of snow a year and the snow was still deep along the road in late May. It was soon after Memorial Day when we reached Valdez.

Though we made reservations in advance we weren’t able to find a campground in town where we could stay for the entire three months so we had to move periodically. However it did give us the chance to check out four different RV parks. The first was Eagles Rest. Later we spent a week at Bear Paw Two with the Camper backed up to the channel that leads into the harbor, allowing us to watch the interesting boat traffic from our back window. Next was the main Bear Paw RV Park and finally Valdez RV Park.

We had a fair amount of room at Eagles Rest but the other three were very tight. Valdez RV Park was especially crammed as it got into salmon season. It was built over 30 years ago when campers were smaller and didn’t have slides. The new owners are aware of the problem and do their best to accommodate guests, but when every site is taken it’s a problem. One of the campers that parked behind us backed into our cargo tray and damaged it but we didn’t notice till later. We were able to straighten out the tray and rivet it back together.

What was nice about the RV parks were the in-town locations. There is also a KOA but that’s a few miles out of town. We enjoyed being able to walk to the harbor and around town. And it was a short trip to visit our grandson, and his parents, which we did almost every day.

Valdez is so incredibly beautiful. It is situated on a port at the north end of Prince William Sound. All around mountains rise up thousands of feet from the sea. There is just the one road into Valdez which descends from Thompson Pass and winds through Keystone Canyon where waterfalls pour down on both sides before reaching this lovely village nestled up against the sea.

The 9.2 Good Friday earthquake of 1964 heavily damaged Valdez and the town was then rebuilt on more stable ground four miles west. Museums tell incredible stories of the catastrophic event and of the town’s ability to recover.

We loved our summer in Valdez spending time with family, helping to grow a garden and exploring the area. Periodically we visited the fish hatchery on the other side of the port to watch the return of the salmon and to observe the wildlife that showed up to greet them. We also took a few expeditions to other parts of Alaska, including a couple visits with our son in Fairbanks.

We flew out to Nome for a few days which was an incredible experience in itself. Landing in a 737 at a small airport on the remote tundra was the first indication of how unique this place is. To compare Nome to any other place is unfair. Nome is Nome. It is etched into a thin line where the open sea meets the open tundra in an environment that can be very harsh. The people who call Nome home are resilient and resourceful. Everything comes in either by plane or barge. As we walked the muddy streets of Nome, keeping an eye out for wandering muskox, we met fascinating people and learned of their rich history and culture. We also rented a Jeep and explored a bit of two of the three roads that lead to other villages. The area was hit hard by a bad storm the year before and this was evident when we drove out to Safety Roadhouse. A lot of little fish camps along the coast were destroyed.

While there is no road to Nome it does mark the end of the Iditarod Trail. It was special to see where the Iditarod mushers and sled dogs pull up off the coast onto Front Street and are greeted by cheering crowds as they head down the final stretch towards the burled arch that marks the completion of their 1000-mile journey from Anchorage. When we were there the burled arch was on display in the city park. It is moved into place on Front Street during the race.

On another expedition we boarded a ferry in Valdez with our truck and enjoyed a beautiful boat ride to Whittier. After checking out the town we headed west through the tunnel and then down to Seward for a couple days. There we saw the start of the Historical Iditarod Trail that stretches from there to Nome. The ceremonial start of the Iditarod Sled Dog Race is in Anchorage and we saw that site as well. From Seward we drove up to Palmer. We visited the Iditarod Headquarters a few miles west of Palmer and took a sled dog cart ride with Iditarod musher Riley Dyche. Two of the dogs pulling the cart were actually from our son’s kennel, Riley borrowed them for the summer, so it was nice to meet the dogs as well.

Traveling out to the quirky little town of McCarthy and the historical mining town of Kennicott in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park was another amazing experience. The road itself to get there is an adventure. We had a lovely stay at the Kennicott Glacier Lodge together with our daughter, her husband and the grandson. Kennicott offers both interesting mining history and amazing views of the mountains and glaciers of Wrangell-St. Elias. Often in Alaska you see a fascinating interweaving of human history and natural grandeur and this was surely no exception.

We also took three boat tours to see wildlife and glaciers. From Valdez we took a Stan Stephens tour to Mears Glacier and later a ride aboard the Lulu Belle to see Columbia Glacier. When we were in Seward we took a Major Marine tour to Northwestern Glacier within Kenai Fjords National Park. On all these tours the wildlife we saw was absolutely incredible. We got to see orca up close. We saw humpback whales bubble feeding and were able to hear them as they swam directly beneath our boat. There were mountain goats, black bear, seals, sea lions, Dall’s porpoises, otters, puffins, auklets and so much more. In Northwestern Fjord we saw the Kittlitz’s Murrelet which is in near-threatened status and this is the place to see them. The Major Marine tour was our favorite. On the Lulu Belle we were uncomfortable with how close it got to wildlife.

We left Valdez in mid-August and drove first up to Fairbanks for a river boat ride and to see our son one more time. Our stay at Rivers Edge RV Park was extended a few days because a stabilizer jack failed on the camper. We think what did it in was a construction zone we drove through on the Richardson Highway. In this particular one a dirt path went around and through a huge dip and we had to charge through in order to get back up the other side. The jack didn’t hit ground but it likely took a hard enough jolt to bust it.

Thanks to mobile techs Ryan and Paul we got back on the road. Heading down the Alaska Highway as we approached the border there was a large construction zone where they were repairing the awful roads we experienced in May. We were following an RV caravan and a motorcoach with a vehicle in tow apparently got caught in soft dirt and pulled to the right. We saw it bounce as it plowed into the back of a parked DOT pickup. The roads are definitely part of the adventure.

The ice was off Kluane Lake when we came back through and the waves were impressive. Hi Country in White Horse was another repeat stay. We took a different route back through Canada, turning south at Watson Lake onto the Cassiar Highway. It was at Watson Lake that we had our closest fire encounter on the return trip and we timed our arrival for when it looked like we would have our best chance of getting through. It had been closed many days. At the Baby Nugget campground near Watson Lake we had ash falling on our camper. Soon after turning onto the Cassiar the next morning we were picked up by a pilot truck that kept a brisk pace as we drove past the area of the fire.

Canada has lovely regional parks and in British Columbia we stayed at Kinaskan Lake and Tyhee Lake. There were wildfires in southern B.C. as well but we avoided them heading down from Fort Nelson and cutting over at Cache Creek to 5. Back in spring Cache Creek had a devastating flood and now they were dealing with fires in the region. We crossed back out of Canada at the Sumas crossing into Washington just after Labor Day.

December 2023
In December we returned to Alaska again, leaving our camper in Arizona and flying this time from Las Vegas to Anchorage. We timed our arrival with when our son-in-law happened to be in Anchorage and we rode back to Valdez with him. There was a blizzard warning for Thompson Pass but he’s a seasoned Alaska driver and got through fine. It was so wonderful to see our grandson again and to be with him for his first Christmas. It was amazing how much he had grown. As in February Valdez was a winter wonderland and in the first two weeks we were there about 8 feet of snow fell. We stayed there a month before returning to our waiting camper in Arizona.

When we tell people that we have been to Alaska a common response is, “Oh, that’s a place I want to go sometime.” Is that you? Have you never been there but long to go? To that we say – Go! It is so beautiful. Experience for yourself the awe of Alaska.

Over the Mountains

Mountains are beautiful. Mountains are inspiring. Mountains are also intimidating when you need to get to the other side of the range and you have your house in tow behind you, but you just need to get over it. We won’t be able to give you all the details of our travels over the mountains in the spring of 2022, so we’ll just summit up.

It was with some sadness we left the Pacific Coast of C.O.W. behind us. With anticipation we turned right and headed toward the sunrise with the Cascades, Bitterroots, Rockies and Bighorns waiting ahead of us. Our Silverado 2500HD 6.6L gasser gets us up big slopes just fine. Without the engine braking of a diesel the descents get to be a bit of an art form.

The last four campgrounds along the coast were Thousand Trail and the next four in Washington would also be Thousand Trail. First up was Tall Chief, a beautiful RV resort just east of Seattle, not far from Snoqualmie Falls. Its location allowed us to visit relatives in the Seattle area and it also offered beautiful views of the Cascades just to the east. A freak storm late one evening dumped slushy hail that took the awnings off a few campers and crushed a few canopies in the campground but fortunately we retracted our awnings in time.

Next up, and we do mean up, was Leavenworth. There was snow in Stevens Pass, in the middle of May, but the roads were just wet. The next day our son and his partner drove up to join us and it did snow on them. Leavenworth RV Campground is just north of the town of Plain and about half an hour from the fascinating town of Leavenworth with its enchanting Bavarian theme. The scenery was incredible and we enjoyed our stay here so much. We also left here with a piece of German heritage in the form of a tiny cuckoo clock for our RV.

Coming down the east side of the Cascades we emerged into the Columbia River Gorge and headed a bit south to Crescent Bar RV Resort on the east side of the river. Though we had traveled less than a hundred miles the terrain was vastly different, and yet spectacular. It was different, too, from when last we had seen the Columbia at Astoria, OR. We were at Crescent Bar just 2 nights before heading off to the northeastern corner of Washington.

About 40 miles north of Spokane is Little Diamond. We got out onto the little lake with our tandem kayak. It was a lovely, woodsy campground where we instantly fell in love with the area.

Our next reservation was a bit challenging, mostly because it was now Memorial Day Weekend. We also wanted to stay in Idaho for the experience and to put it on our map, but that part of Idaho is quite narrow. We found a place at Farragut State Park on Lake Pend Oreille. The park was rich in beautiful scenery and in history. In World War II this was the site of a large naval training base that provided basic training for 293,381 sailors. We only stayed two nights because it was expensive. Non-residents pay double for the camping fee and for the park entry fee. The snub to out-of-state guests was something we hadn’t experienced before in our travels and we won’t be staying there again as nice as it was.

Next up was a one-night Harvest Hosts stay at a ranch near Missoula, Montana. We were one of about 6 campers parked in a field behind the current homesite and near the old abandoned homesite from the 1800s. We learned a lot from the host about agriculture and local history. We also enjoyed hiking on the ranch and visiting with the other guests.

Our schedule wasn’t allowing us to see as many sites in Montana as we would have liked but we had vacationed there several times before and would be back in the future. Glacier National Park is a favorite of ours but it went into the category of “next time.”

We had relegated Yellowstone National Park to the same category but when we checked in for our two-night stay at Osens Campground in Livingston the host pointed out that it was an easy one-hour drive to Yellowstone. So for our one full day in the area we decided to take a day trip to Yellowstone. Though we couldn’t of course see as much as we had before when we stayed in the park, we were able to take in many of the park’s unique gems including Old Faithful.

We were glad we had the opportunity to visit Yellowstone when we did. Just 12 days later a catastrophic flood wiped out the road we had taken down to Gardiner and into the north entrance of the park.

The next two-night stop was at Grandview Campground in Hardin, Montana. From here we were able to explore nearby Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. It was another case where history is best learned with two feet on the ground. Driving and walking the hills of Little Bighorn we gained a much deeper understanding not only of the events that occurred there in 1876 but also of the conflict that preceded and followed.

The Bighorn Mountains were our next destination. Weather was a concern as we headed to Middle Fork Campground in Bighorn National Forest west of Buffalo, Wyoming. Storms with heavy rain were in the forecast. Though the rain didn’t materialize that first night the creek through the campground was running strong and kept rising even without the rain. Our one exit crossed the creek and, as much as we loved the setting, we needed to bail.

That meant we needed to find another place to stay that night. Fortunately, we were able to find a place right next to a National Park site, Devils Tower in Northeastern Wyoming. We stayed in the KOA that is immediately on the east side of the edifice. And it was a short enough drive that we arrived with time to explore the park. One of the unique features of the campground is that they show the movie “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” every night. The movie was filmed at the campground.

We had hoped to stay in Custer State Park in South Dakota for our next stay but weren’t able to make reservations, though we had been trying for some time. However, we found Heartland RV Park just to the east of the park which was a very nice place to stay for four nights and the location allowed us to explore the Black Hills, Custer State Park and Mount Rushmore. We also made a run up to Box Elder to vote and to check on our home address.

As a service for those who are reading this we want to share a lesson we learned in the Black Hills. Don’t yodel while driving through the narrow tunnels along the Iron Mountain Road. It’s not good for the side mirrors. In the picture of the bus note the sign in the windshield that says “Student Driver.” He did better than I.

The terrain before us was now flattening out. One more place of significant topographical variation awaited us though. We spent one night at Sleepy Hollow Campground in Wall, South Dakota. From there we visited Badlands National Park, Minuteman Missile National Historic Site and even got in some of the touristiness of Wall.

Now it was the 11^th of June. We were over the mountains of the West and it was downhill from there. Soon we would be back in Minnesota and things were looking up.

A Year Down the Road

A year ago we pulled out of William O’Brien State Park in Minnesota and headed off into our new full-time RV life. In this first year we have experienced and learned so much. It has reinforced lessons we already knew and taught us new lessons along the way. Here are a few insights from our travels.

November 2021

December 2021

Spreading our roots
Selling your home and going full-time in an RV is often described as pulling up roots. For us it has been about spreading our roots. Roots come from the heart not a foundation. While our deepest roots are still in Minnesota of course, we have woven so many other places into our lives.

We have found connections with ancestors in various places around the country. In Southern Minnesota we located the graves of Dan’s great-grandparents. In an Iowa museum we discovered a clock made by a great-great-uncle in Norway. In Maine Kara learned she is related to Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. In Massachusetts we toured a house built in 1678 by her ancestors 10 generations back.

And it has been a great joy to visit friends and family where they are. We get to know them so much better than when we are at a gathering somewhere. Thank you to all who have shown us such wonderful hospitality. From hiking an Illinois prairie and taking shelter from the lightning in an ammunition bunker to off-roading in the Arizona desert we have had a lot of fun together.

January 2022

February 2022

It hasn’t been easy
Living full-time on the road hasn’t been the easy life or a life of leisure. It is a lot of work. If we were staying 3-6 months in a place it might be easier, but not when we’re averaging less than 4 nights per stay. And we weren’t looking for the easy life. We were looking for the rich life, and that we have found in abundance.

March 2022

April 2022

Life goes on
There is still the business of life to deal with from bills to maintenance to family matters to personal wellness to making reservations. We spent a couple days parked in a casino parking lot finishing taxes. It all becomes more challenging when you’re mobile, even just receiving a package, but it is doable.

May 2022

June 2022

We are travelers
Tourists have destinations while travelers have way-points. Not that one is better than the other, they are just different experiences.

When we were working we would carve out some time for a vacation, go to a destination and explore that area as best we could in the time we had, which was never enough. Now as full-time travelers our destinations have become way-points. Not only do we learn about many different places, we also learn about the greater context and how all these areas connect in place and time. We learn about how different communities relate and compare. This world is fascinating and it has been good to get to know it better, from the Grand Canyon to the world’s tallest filing cabinet, from this country’s inspiring stories to its silent history.

July 2022

August 2022

Weather is a wildcard
We started with a general goal to stay in places where the high temperature was in the 70s but that has proved to be more of a challenge than we expected. Weather has become more extreme and less predictable. If we can stay above freezing as much as possible and avoid the big storms we’re doing good. All in all we have been very fortunate with weather though there have been some close calls.

September 2022

October 2022

November 2022

Are there things we miss about our life in a stationary house? For sure. Is there anything we would do differently had we the chance? Perhaps. Do we have any regrets with our decision to sell our house and travel full-time? Not at all. We appreciate the opportunity we have to explore the why in the road and are so glad we seized that opportunity. Now on to the next year.

28 thousand miles and 1 year down the road

States visited: Minnesota, South Dakota, Iowa, Missouri, Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Louisiana, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Maryland, West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina.

National Parks visited: Big Bend, Saguaro, Grand Canyon, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Redwoods, Yellowstone, Badlands, Indiana Dunes, Cuyahoga Valley, Acadia, Shenandoah plus 15 other National Park sites.

The Coast of C.O.W.

When someone asks us which place has been our favorite so far we pause for a moment since there is so much to pick from. In the first 11 months of our full-time travels we have covered over 27,000 miles, been to 35 states and visited 12 national parks. However, since April our answer has remained the same, the coast of C.O.W. – California, Oregon and Washington.

We have been to the Pacific Coast before but not between San Francisco and the Olympic Peninsula. The wonders that awaited us went beyond our high expectations. Not only was the scenery incredible but there were also many historical and cultural elements to experience as we traveled up U.S. Highway 101 from north of Eureka, California 500 miles up to near Aberdeen, Washington before turning inland.

Our first coastal stay was at Kamp Klamath, along the Klamath River, near Klamath, California. It was a delightful campground and they were nice to reassign us to a site that wasn’t soggy from recent rain. Best of all it was close to Redwoods National Park. The official name is Redwoods National and State Parks which was confusing because it sounds like some areas are national park and others are state park but it’s the same land managed jointly.

101 goes through the park which provided us with a sample of its beauty and we were looking forward to driving Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway through the heart of the southern section of the park. That had to wait however since on the first day of our visit the road was closed due to high winds and the danger of large limbs falling on the road, which had happened a couple weeks earlier. A ranger at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center directed us to Cal-Barrel Road, a seasonally closed road we could hike that day that not only brought us into the redwoods but also allowed Scout to hike with us.

We had been among the sequoias up in the Sierras and the redwoods here provided a similar experience that was still uniquely profound. There was nothing like being in a whole forest of trees that are so incredibly tall. It made you feel so small in comparison and yet it also made you feel giant to be a part of it.

We had one more day to explore the redwoods and fortunately the weather improved, allowing us to drive the Drury and experience the second largest area of old-growth redwood forest in the world.

Near the campground we were also able to drive out to the beach at the mouth of the Klamath River and up to High Bluff Overlook.

Heading north from Klamath and the Redwoods Highway 101 went through its most rugged section, before Crescent City, where a perpetual construction zone attempts to keep the road attached to the side of a mountain. All in all 101 was very doable towing our fifth-wheel. There are a lot of twists and ups and downs as it weaves between coast and forest but one just needs to take it slow and enjoy the journey.

The next stop was a single night at Honey Bear near Gold Beach, Oregon. This was a gorgeous campground with a trail down to the shore at Ophir Wayside. One of the amazing things about the Oregon coast is that the shore is all open to the public. It’s frustrating to be in a scenic area that you can’t experience because the prime areas are all developed, but that is not the case where Oregon meets the Pacific. Most beaches are also dog friendly to the delight of Scout, even if it is windy.

Heading north we stopped at Battle Rock Wayside Park in Port Orford, OR. The name Battle Rock seems to be an over glorification for a bungled attempt in 1851 to settle an area that was already settled. Nonetheless it was yet another pretty spot.

In the Pacific Northwest we stayed at a series of six Thousand Trails parks and the first was South Jetty near Florence, Oregon. Florence is a delightful town along the harbor where the Siuslaw River meets the sea and its claim to fame is the exploding whale. Do a search on “exploding whale” and you will learn what happened in 1970 when they attempted to use explosives to remove a beached whale.

Areas around Florence that we explored included Exploding Whale Park which is not where the whale went boom, the South Jetty and its beach where it did, Cape Perpetua with Thor’s Well, Spouting Horn and Cooks Chasm, and the Darlingtonia State Natural Site with its rare carnivorous plants.

Next up was Pacific City, Oregon and the Pacific City RV Campground just to the north. This is very much a three-dimensional park and the drive that wound through the campground and up to our perch of a campsite took some time but it was a lovely place. An established trail through the forest brought us down to McPhillips Beach.

The town of Pacific City is known for the dory fleet. A dory is a special type of fishing boat used for over 100 years that allows the Dorymen to push off the beach at Cape Kiwanda and get through the sheltered shallow waters out to deeper waters. We didn’t see any come in but signs on the beach warn you to watch out for incoming boats. Apparently speed is a key element of getting back through shallow waters.

The main road through Pacific City is Brooten Road. Researching the origin of the name I could find no connection to Brooten, Minnesota other than both are of Norwegian origin. Heading north we drove through the Tillamook area which features not only the famous dairy but also the Air Museum with a 1943 blimp hangar that is the world’s largest clear-span wooden structure.

We had one more stop in Oregon and this was in Seaside. The Seaside RV Resort is on the east side of town and it’s a short drive to the coast. Seaside is a fun town with a summer carnival vibe, even reminding us a tiny bit of the Minnesota State Fair. Though Seaside stretches along the coast the beach itself is still open to the public and is very accessible. At the beach are a nice aquarium and a monument marking the furthest point of the Lewis and Clark expedition. The celebratory atmosphere of town continues out onto the sand with sand sculpting, bubble art, kite flying and people just having fun.

Not far south of Seaside is the quaint town of Cannon Beach and the famous Haystack Rock. Sea stacks are characteristic of the Oregon coast and this is the most photographed of them all. High up on the rock we were able to catch sight of puffins occasionally appearing from holes in the ground. Ecola State Park nearby provided impressive views of the beach and of the ill-fated Tillamook Lighthouse.

There was also a lot to explore not far to the north where the Columbia River enters the Pacific. We visited Lewis and Clark National Historical Park and Fort Clatsop where the explorers wintered in 1805 after their 4000 mile journey across the continent.

On the south side of the mouth of the Columbia is Fort Stevens State Park. Fort Stevens was active from the Civil War through World War II and in 1942 became the only mainland US military installation to come under enemy fire during the war. 17 shells fired from a Japanese submarine did little damage but raised alarm.

Also along the south side of the Columbia is Astoria, Oregon which in itself offers a lot to experience. High on a hill above the city stands the Astoria Column, a 125-foot tall monument built in 1926. Murals on the exterior of the column depict local history including the Lewis and Clark expedition. The views from the park are amazing whether you are at the base as was Dan or dare to climb to the top as did Kara.

To go from Oregon to Washington on 101 required crossing the immense Astoria-Megler bridge over the Columbia River. It is the longest continuous truss bridge in the U.S. and takes you about 200 feet above the river to allow ocean freighters to enter the port. The approach ramp on the Astoria side to get up onto the bridge was perhaps the most intimidating part but certainly nothing to justify a long detour. The north-side descent was longer and more gradual.

While the trip from Seaside in Oregon to Seaview in Washington and the Long Beach RV and Camping Resort went high it didn’t go far. To clarify, The Long Beach in Long Beach RV and Camping Resort is a reference to Long Beach the beach, which is called Long Beach because it is said to be the world’s longest beach, and not Long Beach the town which is just north of Seaview the town that Long Beach RV and Camping Resort is in and not to be confused with Seaside though both are seaside and have a view of the sea. Hope that helps.

From Long Beach the campground it is a short walk to the beach allowing us to visit the shore many times for kite flying, observing clammers, walks by the sea and watching the waves. Making our stay more special is that we were joined by our son who lives in Seattle, for Mothers Day even. While taking a family selfie on the beach we were reminded – never turn your back on the ocean. Surprise!

Just south of the campground is Cape Disappointment on the northern side of the mouth of Columbia. In addition to more fascinating beaches and incredible views from above it also features two lighthouses, military bunkers and the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center.

From Seaview, Washington (Long Beach) we had but 65 more miles on 101, passing the world’s largest oyster, before bidding farewell to the Pacific and turning inland. We look forward to our return to the Coast of C.O.W. whenever that may be.

In the Words and Footsteps of Muir

“The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.”

We count ourselves among the many who are inspired by the words of John Muir and are grateful for his immense contributions to the creation of our national parks. As we traveled through California back in March and April we did so in the context of his writings and sometimes even in his footsteps. The quotes contained here are from John Muir.

“I care to live only to entice people to look at Nature’s loveliness.”

Our first stop after leaving Arizona was BLM land at the southern edge of Joshua Tree National Park. We boondocked there for two nights and spent a day exploring the park. Coming in the south entrance to the park it was over 30 miles before we saw a Joshua tree which highlighted for us that there is more to see here than just the trees. In the northern part of the park we saw many of the signature plants and more of other fascinating plants, rocks and sights.

“One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.”

For a couple weeks we stayed at regional parks in the Victorville and San Bernadino areas which allowed us to visit family. One day we visited the Calico Ghost Town. On another we went to a dog beach at Huntington, completing our Atlantic to Pacific traverse of the country.

“Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in,
where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul alike.”

Next we moved up to the Fresno area to moochdock with family there for a few days, putting our solar power to good use. We did a day trip up to Shaver Lake which is very low. On the way to Shaver we drove through a lot of burn area from the 2020 Creek Fire. California is so dry.

“The mountains are calling and I must go.”

Then it was time to head up into the mountains to Yosemite Lakes RV Resort, a Thousand Trails park. It is only 5 miles from the Big Oak Flat entrance to Yosemite National Park. Part of the route we took going through Snelling and Coulterville is the same route John Muir took when he walked from San Francisco to Yosemite in 1868. During our stay we explored Yosemite Valley and Hetch Hetchy. In the evenings back at our camper we watched the first couple episodes of the Ken Burns special on the National Parks where they talk about John Muir’s contributions to Yosemite.

“Another glorious Sierra day in which one seems to be dissolved and absorbed
and sent pulsing onward we know not where. Life seems neither long nor short,
and we take no more heed to save time or make haste than do the trees and stars.
This is true freedom, a good practical sort of immortality.”

Returning to the Central Valley we headed north to Sacramento and stayed at the Lake Minden Thousand Trails RV Campground for a couple nights. We had a wonderful visit with friends of ours who were neighbors back in Minnesota till they moved to California right before the snowiest February on record. Smart folk.

“Beauty beyond thought everywhere, beneath, above, made and being made forever.”

We continued our push north heading up to Redding and the lovely Mountain Gate RV Park. We only had one night here but wished we could have stayed longer. This private park was beautiful.

“Another glorious day, the air as delicious to the lungs as nectar to the tongue.”

We were now up against the mountains again and also were running into winter even though it was the second week of April. A couple days before we arrived the passes to the north on I-5 had been closed because of a snowstorm. We had hoped to visit Lassen Volcanic National Park but it was still snowbound and not open yet.

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings.
Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine into trees.”

Fortunately, our plans were turning us west towards the coast. We took 299 winding over and through the mountains in that direction. There were 3 or 4 passes of around 4000’ that had snow in the woods along the road but fortunately the roads themselves were just wet when we crossed. Just west of Redding we went through Whiskeytown National Recreation Area which was at the center of the 2018 Carr fire, the most destructive fire in the history of the National Park System.

“As long as I live, I’ll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing.
I’ll interpret the rocks, learn the language of flood, storm, and the avalanche.
I’ll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens,
and get as near the heart of the world as I can.”

At the west end of 299 we arrived at Blue Lake and stayed at the casino there which has a special parking lot where RVs can stay, without hookups, next to the drive-through COVID testing. It was our base for 3 nights as we took care of taxes and other business. This would be the launching point of our trip up the Pacific Coast.

“Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while,
and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.”

In our next post we will share our stories from the Pacific Coast of C.O.W. – California, Oregon, Washington. It was so beautiful and peaceful, definitely a highlight of our travels.

“Writing is like the life of a glacier; one eternal grind.”

AmaZing Arizona

For nearly six weeks in February into March we explored Arizona and everywhere we went we found something amazing. Our travels took us from Benson to Mesa to Quartzsite to Yuma to Quartzsite again to Verde Valley and the Grand Canyon, then back to Quartzsite once more.

Amazing sights. Our scenic visits included two National Parks and a National Monument. At Saguaro National Park east of Tucson the Cactus Forest Drive and a hike revealed to us the wonders of the unique and fascinating saguaro cactus and other desert plants.

While we were staying in Verde Valley we did a day trip up to the Grand Canyon. Even though we got just a taste of the canyon we were still overwhelmed by its immense beauty. Even more amazing, we learned later that Dan’s brother Les was at the Grand Canyon the same day hiking down below while we were up on the rim.

Within Verde Valley we went to Tuzigoot National Monument. As we walked among the remaining walls of the 110 room pueblo from a thousand years ago it broadened our sense of history and culture.

While not a National Park, Sedona and the surrounding Red Rocks are a national treasure. We made a day trip to this area as well.

Amazing sites. At the Thousand Trails Verde Valley RV Resort we stayed in section M, perched atop a hill with other layers of the RV park cascading down to the river 200 feet below. It offered an expansive view of the valley and over the ridge to the north we could the see the snowcapped peaks of the mountains near Flagstaff. Color was added to the mornings by hot air balloons lifting off from Sedona.

Usery Mountain Regional Park in Mesa was another favorite of ours. It was a very nice campground in a scenic setting with a convenient location.

We also developed our boondocking skills on BLM land near Quartzsite. Camping out in the desert was a very different experience for sure, especially when a scorpion was discovered beneath a rock near the camper.

Amazing people. In Mesa we had a delightful get together with Karen and Randy and we were welcomed with great hospitality. Dan and Karen are cousins and there were many sweet memories to recall. In Yuma we visited Karl and Kathy who are good friends from college. They had us over for a fun evening of sharing old stories and catching up on new ones. The next day Karl took us off-roading in the desert which was a thrill.

We also made new friends on our Arizona travels, especially at the rally we attended which brings us to the next amazing topic.

Amazing events. One big event was the Grand Design Rally in the desert south of Quartzsite. Grand Design is the manufacturer of our camper and the 170 other rigs at the rally. There were a number of seminars and social gatherings that made it very educational and entertaining.

The other big event was the addition of solar to our camper which we had done at Discount Solar in Quartzsite. With four solar panels, two lithium batteries, a charge controller and an inverter we now have a lot more options on where we can stay.

Amazing birds. Dan is a long-time birder with a life list approaching 400 different species. A good year might add 5 new birds to the list of lifers. The campground in Benson itself provided 6. In all there were 15 lifers seen in Arizona including Phainopepla and Verdin.

From Arizona we continued west into California completing our coast-to-coast cross-country trek and made the turn northward. We saw more parks, more relatives, more friends, more of this incredibly beautiful and fascinating land. More to come.

It starts with See and has a Why in it

The more we see of the wonders of this world the more we wonder. When we see a place through the stories, pictures and songs of others we gain their perspective. And when we see a place for ourselves it allows us to create our own experience. Anais Nin said, “We don’t see things as they are; we see them as we are.” The more we see the more we come to understand not only about our world but also about ourselves and how we are a part of it all.

As we traveled west along the I-10 corridor from Destin, Florida to Benson, Arizona there was much to see and much to wonder, and so much to learn. As we shared in our last post, at Henderson Beach in Destin we marveled at the beautiful green waters and squeaky white sands of the Emerald Coast.

In Waveland, Mississippi we were stunned by the impact of Hurricane Katrina that is still visible 16 years after it made landfall here. The few buildings near the coast are new and built up high on pillars. There are many older driveways that lead to empty lots. Visiting the Ground Zero museum we learned about the effect the storm had on the people of the area. A quarter of the population left and didn’t return. At Buccaneer State Park where we stayed Katrina brought ashore a 30′ storm surge that took out all the buildings and 8000 trees. As we camped along the bayou we also learned about the resilient beauty of nature. Despite all the trees that were lost it was still quite woodsy.

We did a one night Harvest Hosts stay at Bayou Tech Brewing in Arnaudville, Louisiana where we had a delightful evening at the brewery enjoying delicious food and beverages. Driving through the Louisiana countryside we saw farmers harvesting a crop we were not familiar with. It turns out it was sugar cane and we learned they burn the field before they harvest the cane.

Next up was Texas where we stayed at a couple Thousand Trails Encore parks in the Houston area, Lake Conroe to the north of the city and then 5 nights in a pecan grove at Colorado River to the west. Spending a little extra time there gave us a chance to regroup, fix a leaky tire and have mail delivered to us. To clarify, this is the Colorado River that flows through Texas, not the one in the Grand Canyon.

Continuing west through Texas we had a couple one-night stays at Stone Creek RV Park near San Antonio and then Fort Stockton Resort and RV Park. Fort Stockton provided a taste of West Texas history and it set us up for our next adventure, a drive down into the Big Bend which is far enough off I-10 to be too far for a day trip.

The next day it was an amazing drive through very open country down to Lajitas, Texas which is on the Mexican border and sits between Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park. The Big Bend region has the darkest night sky in the contiguous United States and the view of the stars from Maverick Ranch Resort was incredible.

We spent the first full day exploring Big Bend National Park taking in the massive expanse of beauty. It was eye-opening to us to see the Rio Grande as a little river wandering through the wilderness and not just a line of division on a map. We were also in wonder at the variety of mountains within the park. We learned that some were once at the bottom of the sea and were lifted up by the folding of the earth’s crust, others were formed by lava from volcanic eruptions and the white rocks were the ash from those volcanoes. The next day we hiked the state park which has a couple trails, Hoodoos and Closed Canyon, that allow dogs. Hiking the slot canyon was definitely a unique experience for us and Scout loved clambering over the rocks.

On the evening of our third and final night in Lajitas someone mentioned that the temperature would be down to 19° in a couple days. That’s when we learned of a winter storm headed south. We stuck with our plan the next day and returned to I-10 for a one-night stay in Van Horn, Texas. From there we had wanted to move up to the Las Cruces area in New Mexico to catch a couple more national parks but we needed to push further west. By daybreak the next morning we were on our way. In El Paso they were already salting the roads. We traveled 400 miles that day taking on mountain passes, dusty desert plains and a surprisingly tough tumbling tumbleweed before finally arriving in Benson, Arizona where we stayed at Valley Vista, a very nice Thousand Trails Encore park. When we pulled into the RV park a gentleman welcomed us and then proceeded to extricate the tumbleweed from our grill.

It was cool in Benson but we avoided the snow and ice. Now we are spending a month or so bouncing around Arizona and we will cover that chapter of our adventures in our next post.

So what is it that starts with see and has a why in it? It is CURIOSITY. Curiosity is what sparks our desire to see old places from new perspectives and to seek out new places we have never seen before. Curiosity opens our hearts and minds to marvel at the world’s wonders and see the why within the wonder.

Wild Florida

Driving though the Ocala National Forest it almost felt as much like we were in Minnesota as Florida. Almost. And as we began setting up at Rodman Campground State Park we quickly began to realize we had been missing something and we had just found it, to be immersed in nature, in the wild. We felt a greater sense of belonging and peace than we have in any RV resort.

This place was familiar and yet new and fascinating. Never had we stayed in a campground with warning signs for both alligators and bears. Another unique feature was the Cross Florida Barge Canal that ran alongside the campground, one of two sections that were completed before development of a shipping canal across Florida was halted.

Not too far south of the park is Salt Springs. The spring itself was nice. It didn’t reveal any manatees though we did see a blue crab which was cool. We also checked out the town. Enough said about that.

To the north is the town of Palatka and that was much more interesting. We hiked around Ravine Gardens State Park which was beautiful. As we were crossing a wooden suspension bridge two Barrred Owls sat in a tree near us and began calling back and forth to each other. We also drove around downtown Palatka seeking out the many murals with the assistance of a map we found online.

From Rodman Campground we moved back towards the Atlantic coast to Bulow RV Park, a Thousand Trails – Encore park near Flagler Beach. Overall we enjoyed the campground but there were issues. We did not like the buddy style sites that made us pull in forward. There was enough room to unhook the truck and turn it around but then getting it out was tight. There were also electrical issues at the pedestal for us and the camper we shared it with. For both of us our surge protectors gave an Open Ground fault and shut down, leaving us without power until maintenance was eventually able to fix the box.

One nice aspect of Bulow is the location that made it easy for us to take care of business or to go exploring. On one of our jaunts over to Flagler Beach we noticed a strange contrail to the south. It happened to be a SpaceX rocket launch from Kennedy Space Center. Bulow Woods is next to the campground and provided a nice walk through the forest.

Canaveral National Seashore was another great outing destination. We also went over to Merritt Island and did the Black Point Wildlife Drive as the sun was setting. Winding the seven miles through the ponds the views were spectacular and there were many different birds from Blue Winged Teal to Roseate Spoonbills.

Another day we went to Daytona Speedway for a test session of the new NASCAR Next Gen car. We were able to pull into the infield and parked in turn 2. We watched from the bed of our truck as cars came by at over 180 mph. That was wild in a whole other way, a very thrilling way.

From Bulow we began our journey west with an eventual destination of Quartzsite, Arizona. There was more Florida to be discovered along the way. We spent two nights at Suwanee River Rendezvous Campground near Mayo, Florida, a very campy place and oh so friendly. We loved it. And yes, this is the river behind the song Swanee River.

Our next stop was up in the Panhandle in Destin, Florida right along the Gulf Coast. We spent three nights at Henderson Beach State Park which is in the city but the campground is tucked into lush woods. The beach is even more beautiful than the campground. The sand is white and squeaks if you drag your feet. The water just off shore is an emerald green, giving this area the name the Emerald Coast. The path from the campground to the beach was closed for some reason so we needed to go to the public area in the park. Dogs aren’t allowed on the beach but they can enjoy the nice nature trail in the dunes nearby.

We enjoyed our time in Florida, especially experiencing it’s wild side. Now it’s time for us to wing our way west.

Magic Beyond the Kingdom

It is now the year of ’22 and we continue to dance around Central Florida. Yes, the pun was intended. Central Florida is the area that’s somewhere between the Panhandle and the Keys and roughly centered around a famous mouse. Prior to arriving in Florida we had just one reservation, Peace River for 12 nights. Other than that we’ve been piecing it together as we go, which can be a challenge in the busy season. Still we have found great places to stay and are learning the nuances of trip planning.

After leaving Peace River we moved up to Lake Magic RV Resort in Clermont for three nights. It is a Thousand Trails/Encore park just south of the famed Thousand Trails Orlando RV Resort (TTO) and not very far from Disney World and the aforementioned mouse. Lake Magic is in a convenient location and yet is enough at the edge that you aren’t trapped in traffic in every direction. The sites are a bit cozy but surely not crowded. We were on an outside corner which gave us a bit more space. There’s a lot to like about Lake Magic and the pool was one thing we enjoyed.

From there we went up to Port Orchard, just south of Daytona Beach, for four nights. We stayed in Nova Family Campground with our home parked beneath a large, stately oak that stood as a Southern Belle with her tresses of Spanish Moss swaying in the breeze. The oak provided shade in the record high temperatures. It also provided a few heart stoppages as it threw acorns down upon us, often with a dramatic WHACK! Another note on Nova is that it is near Daytona Speedway. We took the opportunity to drive around the track, well, not on the track, around the facility, on the streets.

In addition to where we stay we have also had to get creative with what we do. It seems a shame to be in this area and not go to Disney World. However, it doesn’t fit with our goal of minimizing public interaction. We have been to the Disney World parks before and will again in the future. And there are so many other options in the region. Having a dog along helps. If Scout can come along it’s likely to be a relatively safe activity.

Bok Tower Gardens is not a kingdom but it certainly is a magical place. The afternoon we spent there was absolutely delightful. There is a $5 admission for dogs and there are only a couple areas where they can’t go. Wandering about the gardens we were reminded of the Hamilton Gardens that we had enjoyed in New Zealand. Adding to the wonder is that it sits atop a hill, yes, a hill in Florida, and there are nice vistas of the surrounding countryside. And the crown jewel is the Bok Tower, a carillon with 60 bells that played a half-hour concert of Christmas tunes while we were there. It was all so beautiful and we will be back next time we’re in Florida.

Another activity we enjoyed was the Showcase of Citrus where we wandered the orchards and picked a bag of oranges, lemons and other tasty vessels of sunshine. There are other things to do there, like ride the “world’s largest” monster truck, but we had a more fruitful focus.

On another particularly hot day we went to Flagler Beach which has areas that allow dogs. Scout did much better with the beach this time, even allowing the waves to gently wash around her feet. Flagler Beach is a nice area because the public has easy access to the beach and there’s convenient parking.

In addition to celebrating the holidays we also celebrated our anniversary. The day began with a drive to Blue Spring State Park. Though we didn’t see any manatees it is a beautiful place and was still an amazing visit. Because we were there early enough Scout was able to join us as we walked the boardwalk along the spring. That afternoon we enjoyed 18 holes of first class mini golf at Pirate Island over by the coast and not far from Nova Campground. I suspect that the putter I had was defective, either bent or the wrong color, judging by the final comparison of my score to Kara’s. For a special dinner we picked up some tasty vittles curbside at Coastal Grill and dined back at home.

We have a couple more weeks in Florida and then we begin our migration westward towards Quartzsite, Arizona where we will be attending the Grand Design rally at the end of February. We wish you a Happy New Year filled with Happy New Adventures!

Christmas in Florida

Merry Christmas from Peace River RV Park near Wauchula, Florida. This is our first Christmas on the road. As of last week we no longer own a house. This holiday season is different for us and yet still very special. We find it interesting that the Christmas story involves a couple that was traveling and couldn’t find a place to stay.

After leaving Forest Lake Village we went to the Thousand Trails Peace River RV Park just south of Wauchula, Florida for 12 nights. One reason we came here was the proximity to the Orlando airport. Kara flew back to Minnesota for a week to close up and close on the house. It wasn’t quite as convenient as we had hoped. We knew traffic would be heavy but still figured the round trip to the airport and back would take about 4 hours. Each trip actually took well over 7 hours. During the holidays the traffic in Orlando increases by 300%.

We have really enjoyed Peace River RV Park. We stayed in the 30 amp J/K section which provided more space and quiet. Scout has had fun exploring the trails through the jungle nearby. There’s no sewer hookup in this part of the campground but we received one free visit from the honey wagon.

One obvious difference with this Christmas was the lack of snow and cold. We actually went kayaking on the Peace River on Christmas Day. No alligators or snakes were spotted, though the signs alerting us to their presence did provide extra incentive to keep the kayak upright. An activity on the river that we haven’t done yet is panning for sharks teeth, we have seen a number of people doing that.

Another difference is the material element of Christmas. When we have worked so hard this year to dispose of and disperse most of our belongings there wasn’t much appeal in obtaining new items. It actually helps a person better understand Christmas. It also speaks to the Why. A person’s Why is not about what they possess but rather about what possesses them. For us that is a longing to live life to the full and experience all it has to offer, and then to share that with others to encourage them to do the same, not waiting for it to come someday but going and finding it today. Being able to do that is a great gift to give to ourselves and to share with others.

We hope you have been having a wonderful holiday and that you will have amazing adventures in the New Year!